mymidlifegapyear: The path of the Gods! (my own little Camino)


the beginning of the track...that leads to the track...looks easy enough!

It took me an hour and a half to get where I should have been in 10 minutes!

initially the path was clear

even lost, the view was wonderful

at last I am on the the right track

slight deviation past grapevines

still climbing...are we there yet?

entrance to Nocelle

this was the tricky spot...I took the low road

if I'd only looked closer...I would have seen the sign

Whenever I saw these signs I was happy!

but often it was much harder to navigate

at the top now..

thanks to this farmer who helped me find my way

4th May 2011

The Path of the Gods…my own little Camino

“Go right, then pass the tower, until you get to the bridge, then look left and you’ll see the signs. Follow the track and you’ll get to the start of the path in about an hour and a half…”

It sounded easy enough to find, but just 15 minutes into the walk I knew I was lost!

I first heard about the real “Camino”, an 800 kilometre pilgrimage from France to Santiago De Compostela in Spain, years ago in a book by Shirley McLean. I considered doing part of it with a friend this year, but in the end, for a number of reasons decided to do the “Path of the Gods” on the Amalfi Coast instead. For most of the people who do the Camino, it is a profoundly moving and spiritual experience. Even non religious walkers have found it to be a life changing experience.

Although it is only a footstep in comparison, my eight hours getting to and doing “Il Sentiero degli Dei) became my own “Camino”. Over the course of a couple of hours I got lost (twice) fell, was drenched (during the day I experienced all weather conditions (rain, humidity, cold, sun and in the clouds), I lost my map, got blisters and experienced a range of emotions.

For the first 3 or 4 hours, I had only the company of wildlife and farm animals and when I finally started the real walk and was joined by other trekkers, I was really glad I had had that time on my own.

It is easy to see why this walk has inspired many artists, poets and writers including DH Lawrence. In parts it is so breathtakingly beautiful that it is overwhelming and neither words nor photos do it justice.

The actual return walk takes about 7 hours and starts from Via Pennino in Bomerano (The path is signposted and can be easily found near the church in the main square) to Nocelle. Red markings by CAI (Club Alpino Italiano) mark the way. You can then continue to Montepertuoso or descend via the 100’s of stairs to Positano.

The walk is not difficult if you are reasonably fit. (I passed one group of seniors who seemed to be managing ok). The most challenging part for me was before I found the official walk. I was so exhausted and sore after getting lost and slipping down an embankment that even the thought of a cold beer at Positano didn’t help. (This strategy was helpful on an earlier trip to Peru when I found it difficult to keep going after climbing down Waynu Picchu and Dave kept reminding me of the cold beer waiting for me at the hotel!)

In spite of a few false starts, the walk had many highlights. It was such a relief to find the old deaf farmer who got me back on track, such a pleasure to meet some lovely fellow trekkers and so refreshing to gulp down that icy cold pale ale on the seafront in Positano, but by far the greatest joy was to feel the freedom and pride of achieving and experiencing something that you have set out to do, in spite of the obstacles that you have encountered.

It is not only the beauty of this walk which is so enchanting, but the actual climb up, that draws on your physical and emotional strength is also worthwhile. You are rewarded for your efforts as you move into and through the clouds, when you literally and figuratively seem closer to heaven.

It is a slightly bedraggled and sorer me that buses her way back to Praiano from Positano, but as I look through the photos and relive the day I am so happy that I did my own little Camino!

A presto

Mon x