Present, and Pondering in Paris

I am really surprised, but the moment I stepped off the Airfrance flight at CDG airport in Paris from London Heathrow I felt happy.

I had been to Paris once before. It was a memorable romantic week, with numerous highlights that I spent with my then husband, sister and brother in law.

It was everything I had expected and more, made even better by the fact that we four got on so well. We did all the touristy things and then some special ones (dinner at THE Ritz and spending a day at the museum cum cemetery that is the resting place of Oscar Wilde, Piaf, Abelard and Heloise and Jim Morrison in particular.)

We stayed at a gorgeous little Parisienne 3 star hotel with erotic paintings on the wall and a glimpse of the Notre Dame from our bedroom window and we walked along the Seine, sat on her banks with baguettes, red wine and books and explored all that Paris had to offer. The thing I remember the most is exploring the Latin Quarter and stumbling on a new treasure, a local market, the quirky Shakespeare and Co bookshop, a free music performance on one of the many bridges, the glorious Illes de Cite and Louis with their shops, crepe stalls and homemade icecream and chocolate and the cafes of St Germain where philosophers and writers since Satre have mused and whiled away whole days.

This time it has been very different but no less wonderful.

I retraced some of steps from my last visit.

Delighted when I found deNeuville chocolat shop 63 rue Saint Louis en L’lle and bought their last pack of chocolate coated orange segments that are to die for!

Excited when I was able to find the lovely street with little restaurants around Rue Mouffetard that I remember. Malcolm, Chris and I had pre dinner cocktails in the student bar and then found a typical French restaurant where we sampled typical French cuisine.

Content, as I read my book and listened to music in the garden behind the Notre Dame.

Proud, as I was able to find my favourite spots and show the boys around “my” Paris.

And I have done new things

Stayed in and explored a new area. My hotel in rue St Roch between Opera and Pyramides metro near the Tulleries gardens has been a good base. I have walked for miles each day, along the Seine and to catch up with the others who are staying in the 10^th not far from the Marias.

Walked up to the second platform of the Eiffel Tower and then took the elevator to the top for sunset. The only disappointment was the warm glass of Champagne which was served in plastic glasses. (I am sorry but Champagne should be served tres chilled and in glass people!)     

Shopped at the Paris sales- I replaced a pair of sandals with 2 (they were half price after all) and found a new pair of black capri pants to replace the ones that had all but worn out from so much wear.

 

Went a dinner cruise on the Seine to help Naomi celebrate her 50^th birthday. The “Cristal” of www.bateauxparisiens.com was sleek, air conditioned and elegant and the food was divine. I could have done without the mimed singing and the ingratiating waiter, but that’s just me.

Above all, I have realized that you can experience the romance of Paris without being in a romantic relationship. 

It has been a different experience, but by no means a lesser one.

In many ways it has been better. Sharing and exploring Paris with good friends and on my own has allowed me to appreciate her depth and quirkiness and my own and I look forward to coming back one day, but if I don’t that’s ok too!

A presto

Mon x

every boulevarde has something interesting to see

it really is worth seeing and climbing

this was my landmark ...helps me to get back to my hotel when I lose my way!

One of the Louvre entrances

early morning along the Seine

near the Tulleries

view climbing up the Sud tower

another direction

sunset from the top of the Eiffel Tower

entrance to the Notre Dame

the Seine again

    

Loved London...

I don’t have many photos of my time in London. I’ve been too busy just enjoying it.

Thanks to Tammy (and Gordon’s) hospitality at funky Clapham junction who provided a wonderful place to base myself (do laundry, curl up on the lounge with a cuppa or red wine, have brunch together, unburden and relax) I have managed to make the most of my time here.

Other highlights have been going to watch Greta Scacchi play Bette Davis at the West End, catch up with the Paris crew yesterday for cocktails –It is so good to be able to have intelligent conversations and a laugh, Thanks guys! Oysters and Champagne at the Borough Markets –who said I didn’t like 5 star? –and getting lost…again …and discovering a great little place to hang out for a while –Paul, you would love it!  http://www.physicgarden.org.uk/ and shopping at Primark – recommended to me by 2 different Londoners – very cheap basic travelling clothes, if you can cope with the crowds. (4 pounds buys you an item of clothes that actually survives the washing machine) I also bought a long skirt and top for Guatemala for 2 pounds each at one of many awesome op shops here!

The nicest thing about being here is that I have already seen most of the tourist attractions (I used to come here regularly when I flew for QANTAS) so I have enjoyed just having a local experience. Although I would struggle with the weather, London has a lot to offer, and I can understand why some Aussie ex pats don't want to go back.  

I am off to Paris tomorrow, to catch up with Inge, who has just done “the Camino” the 800 kilometre pilgrimage through Spain, and the Perth crew (Malcolm, Chris and 2 of Naomi’s friends) who have travelled to Paris to help celebrate Naomi’s 50^th birthday.

Should be great!

A presto

Mon x   

last day in London...so spoiled myself for lunch

my wee helped to produce power at the physic garden cafe

a wonderful exhibition at Southbank along the Thames ...stories of Freedom written by children who were refugees

the words were inspiring and a testament to great challenge, resilience and the indomitable human spirit

I spent some time listening to the voices as well as reading the words

and then walked to London Bridge

to the Borough markets

fabulous fresh fruit and vegetables and yummy food!

Cornwall photos....

part of the coastal walk near St Ives

one of the many beaches in the area

could be Australia

well fed locals

lots of accommodation options

local art 

local signage

Clovelly, one of the pretty seaside towns

no cars and steep descent

one of many plaques found on donated seats along the coastal pathways

early morning you have the pathway to yourself

and all the "spirits" who feel connected to this place

not hard to see why

you can walk for miles

and this is the reward

what can I say?

no sunrise is the same

each place is unique

and with views like this

I wouldn't be dead for quids!

The Cotswolds, Devon and Cornwall

I took a BA flight back to London from Tel Aviv. Economy made bearable by the amazingly good service of the flight attendants! Destination Cotswolds, Devon and Cornwall.
 

Take up your right to ….ramble!

Forget your right to take up arms, do what the English do and exercise your “right to ramble”.

On the 24 April 1932 nearly 500 ramblers descended on to Kinder Scout to exercise their right to roam on open moorland. What followed was a brief but vigorous battle with gamekeepers who tried to halt their progress, before the walkers victoriously marched and began a campaign that ultimately led to the formation of the National Parks and the Countryside Rights of Way Act which came into force in 2004 and gave walkers the right to roam throughout vast areas of moor and coast land throughout England.

For one week, I did just that, in the Cotswolds, Devon and Cornwall.

I expected to enjoy driving and walking through picturesque English towns, much like I had imagined from my childhood reading of Agatha Christie novels or watching English TV crime shows, (Inspector Morse and A touch of Frost), and I was looking forward to enjoying cream tea and scones in Devon and Pasties in Cornwall, but I didn’t expect the beauty of the Cornish beaches, the warm hospitality of the locals or that I would enjoy the village “pub” culture and farm life quite so much.

Being a city “girl”, I have not had much close contact with animals, apart from the domestic menagerie I grew up with (my brothers’ guinea pigs, a pet possum which I sadly buried alive when I didn’t realise it was in fact not dead but “playing possum”, much loved dogs who adopted our Italian diet and the goats and rabbits which mysteriously disappeared and ended up on the dinner table (my brother Luke still can’t eat chicken as a result as he could never trust that what Dad called “chicken” was not actually one of the pet goats or rabbits instead!

So it was the child in me that shrieked with joy when I saw rabbits hopping across a field, or tentatively approached a curious horse who followed me across a paddock or was incredulous when a fox scurried past. In fact, I think that I met most of Old McDonald’s guests this week as I got up earlier and earlier in the morning. Today is the summer solstice and officially the longest day of the year, some places in England expecting up to 17 hours of sunlight.

The Cotswolds, Devon and Cornwall each have a lot to offer. There are many historical market towns, with plenty of castles, manors and country gardens to enjoy.

Although I did go to a few of each, I am much more interested in the food, the people and experiencing the environment.

It has been wonderful exploring the local area courtesy of the private landowners who allow you to walk through their property. The walkways are easy to find, with a symbol of a walker and the words public walkway/footway, so you can either explore on your own or join a walking group. Maps and information are readily available from tourist offices in most major towns and villages, but I prefer to set off with a vague idea of where I want to end up and ask a local along the way, as most paths lead you to major points of local interest and often intersect main roads so its hard to get lost (although as you can guess by now, I did!)

There have been many memorable moments and highlights during my time in England. A week has been enough to get a good taste of what this part of the world has to offer.

Don’t miss

Driving through some of the pretty Cotswolds towns, some with very unusual names (In particular I liked Painswick, The Slaughters, and the area around Chipping Campden)

Popping in to a "local" for a drink and chat.

I have rather developed a taste for this experience! The pub food can be surprisingly good and will often feature fresh seasonal local produce. (I managed to be here during asparagus season). I got to meet such lovely people, of all ages and walks of life-the Irishman who grew up in Birmingham and who desperately wants to be a grand dad. The couple who “retired” at 50, 10 years ago and now just travel the world, the old couple who are still love and like each other after 50 years together- the romantic in me was inspired!- and the two businessmen who I thought were alcoholics, when they ordered a “jug” each, until I understood that a jug is an Australian “pot”, (a glass with a handle)

St Ives Cornwall

By far the most wonderful surprise (coming from a place with arguably the best beaches in the world) was how beautiful the Cornish beaches were. I only scratched the surface, but what I saw left me wanting to go back. St Ives, in particular was stunning. A very pretty seaside town, full of cafes, restaurants, art galleries and the most beautiful beaches and coastal walks.

Sometimes when you travel, a place gets a “tick” rating. (Ok done that, I can tick it off) but other times, you know you would like to go back as there is still a lot to do. I don’t know when, or if I can get back to Cornwall and in particular to the hotel I saw in Carbis Bay but I hope I can one day. 

A presto

Mon x

Places I stayed and would recommend.

In the Cotswolds

Brymbo B and B in Mickleton, near Chipping Campden

Gene and Barry were lovely hosts. 35 GBP single

www.brymbo.com

Painswick
www.tibbiwelllodgepainswick.webs.com
4 star b and b in great location

Padstow- Cyntwell B and B Wendy was a very gracious host

CYNTWELL.co.uk 75 GBP twin share

(very cute little b and b right in the centre of the town, great full English breakfast with fresh fruit salad)

Cornwall

St Ives Regent Hotel 48 GBP
Gorgeous little 3 star hotel with water views and guest lounge with free wifi

B and B near Hilperton Paxcroft Cottage www.paxcroftcottages.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk

Your hosts are Sylvia and Bob 40 GBP
clean and comfortable 

the cottage of content...a gorgeous little pub where I spent a few hours

typical village house

early morning walk views

fishing on the Avon river

past another little village

and houses with funny names

across green fields

and little bridges

and more fields

and through more villages

past curious locals

and little hamlets

and more local fauna

might come back here for lunch

this one looks cute too

thatched roof and summer blooms...

lots of memories of my time in the Cotswolds!