mymidlifegapyear: The Cotswolds, Devon and Cornwall

I took a BA flight back to London from Tel Aviv. Economy made bearable by the amazingly good service of the flight attendants! Destination Cotswolds, Devon and Cornwall.

Take up your right to ….ramble!

Forget your right to take up arms, do what the English do and exercise your “right to ramble”.

On the 24 April 1932 nearly 500 ramblers descended on to Kinder Scout to exercise their right to roam on open moorland. What followed was a brief but vigorous battle with gamekeepers who tried to halt their progress, before the walkers victoriously marched and began a campaign that ultimately led to the formation of the National Parks and the Countryside Rights of Way Act which came into force in 2004 and gave walkers the right to roam throughout vast areas of moor and coast land throughout England.

For one week, I did just that, in the Cotswolds, Devon and Cornwall.

I expected to enjoy driving and walking through picturesque English towns, much like I had imagined from my childhood reading of Agatha Christie novels or watching English TV crime shows, (Inspector Morse and A touch of Frost), and I was looking forward to enjoying cream tea and scones in Devon and Pasties in Cornwall, but I didn’t expect the beauty of the Cornish beaches, the warm hospitality of the locals or that I would enjoy the village “pub” culture and farm life quite so much.

Being a city “girl”, I have not had much close contact with animals, apart from the domestic menagerie I grew up with (my brothers’ guinea pigs, a pet possum which I sadly buried alive when I didn’t realise it was in fact not dead but “playing possum”, much loved dogs who adopted our Italian diet and the goats and rabbits which mysteriously disappeared and ended up on the dinner table (my brother Luke still can’t eat chicken as a result as he could never trust that what Dad called “chicken” was not actually one of the pet goats or rabbits instead!

So it was the child in me that shrieked with joy when I saw rabbits hopping across a field, or tentatively approached a curious horse who followed me across a paddock or was incredulous when a fox scurried past. In fact, I think that I met most of Old McDonald’s guests this week as I got up earlier and earlier in the morning. Today is the summer solstice and officially the longest day of the year, some places in England expecting up to 17 hours of sunlight.

The Cotswolds, Devon and Cornwall each have a lot to offer. There are many historical market towns, with plenty of castles, manors and country gardens to enjoy.

Although I did go to a few of each, I am much more interested in the food, the people and experiencing the environment.

It has been wonderful exploring the local area courtesy of the private landowners who allow you to walk through their property. The walkways are easy to find, with a symbol of a walker and the words public walkway/footway, so you can either explore on your own or join a walking group. Maps and information are readily available from tourist offices in most major towns and villages, but I prefer to set off with a vague idea of where I want to end up and ask a local along the way, as most paths lead you to major points of local interest and often intersect main roads so its hard to get lost (although as you can guess by now, I did!)

There have been many memorable moments and highlights during my time in England. A week has been enough to get a good taste of what this part of the world has to offer.

Don’t miss

Driving through some of the pretty Cotswolds towns, some with very unusual names (In particular I liked Painswick, The Slaughters, and the area around Chipping Campden)

Popping in to a "local" for a drink and chat.

I have rather developed a taste for this experience! The pub food can be surprisingly good and will often feature fresh seasonal local produce. (I managed to be here during asparagus season). I got to meet such lovely people, of all ages and walks of life-the Irishman who grew up in Birmingham and who desperately wants to be a grand dad. The couple who “retired” at 50, 10 years ago and now just travel the world, the old couple who are still love and like each other after 50 years together- the romantic in me was inspired!- and the two businessmen who I thought were alcoholics, when they ordered a “jug” each, until I understood that a jug is an Australian “pot”, (a glass with a handle)

St Ives Cornwall

By far the most wonderful surprise (coming from a place with arguably the best beaches in the world) was how beautiful the Cornish beaches were. I only scratched the surface, but what I saw left me wanting to go back. St Ives, in particular was stunning. A very pretty seaside town, full of cafes, restaurants, art galleries and the most beautiful beaches and coastal walks.

Sometimes when you travel, a place gets a “tick” rating. (Ok done that, I can tick it off) but other times, you know you would like to go back as there is still a lot to do. I don’t know when, or if I can get back to Cornwall and in particular to the hotel I saw in Carbis Bay but I hope I can one day.

A presto

Mon x

Places I stayed and would recommend.

In the Cotswolds

Brymbo B and B in Mickleton, near Chipping Campden

Gene and Barry were lovely hosts. 35 GBP single

www.brymbo.com

Painswick
www.tibbiwelllodgepainswick.webs.com
4 star b and b in great location

Padstow- Cyntwell B and B Wendy was a very gracious host

CYNTWELL.co.uk 75 GBP twin share

(very cute little b and b right in the centre of the town, great full English breakfast with fresh fruit salad)

Cornwall