mymidlifegapyear: Oaxaca (wa ha ka)...worth the bus trip there!

view from the bus at sunrise

passing small towns

fresh produce at local market near Oaxaca

artwork recommending recycling. women are selling sugar crystals

Zocalo Oaxaca

reminders of past conflict and future dreams

The ADO Platinum bus service was leaving San Cristobal de Las Casas at 9pm for the 12 hour overnight trip to Oaxaca, (you’ve probably noticed that all public transport timing I have mentioned varies enormously from the estimated to actual journey time, and it can be much more and occasionally less than what is scheduled, so it pays to factor this in to your travel plans), so I decided to spend my last few hours in San Cristobal watching a movie at a funky little café cum alternative cinema called Kinoki.

“Mar adentro” with Javier Bardem is a worthy Oscar winning film that deals sensitively with the subject of euthanasia and love. Sitting in that tiny comfortable cinema, watching an intelligent and absorbing movie in Spanish and munching on my delicious chocolate I was in heaven, so much so that I was running just a little bit late for the taxi I had booked to get me to the bus terminal. (Notice how easily I can slip into business class passenger behaviour!)

The interior of the new “luxury” bus looked impressive, a bit like the old Cathay Pacific business class product, without the properly reclining seats, but with movies, music and onboard toilets. I was greeted, escorted to my seat and given an amenities kit and drink. I was actually expecting a safety demo and imagined a relaxing, comfortable trip.

As a dear friend pointed out later, perhaps it was wrong to even use the words “luxury” and “bus” in the same sentence as the trip was far from what I had imagined!

Maybe it was the trauma of “that” Indian bus trip from Mumbai to Goa with my friend Malcolm or the knowledge that we would be traversing through mountainous terrain at night. Perhaps it was the speed of the bus when it took off or the fact that when I looked out we seemed to be travelling awfully close to other cars. Perhaps it was the sensation of being thrown from side to side as we rounded sharp bends, but I was suddenly gripped with an irrational fear of crashing and being trapped, helpless, and dying somewhere on a Mexican plain, slowly and alone, and no amount of meditation, listening to music or watching movies totally alleviated my fear. Give me a plane with turbulence any day!

That said, I arrived safely and sans physical injury at the Oaxaca bus terminal after witnessing a glorious sunrise and stunning green mountainous landscape for the last two hours of my “luxury” trip and I did feel that somehow I was feeling a whole lot better than if I had travelled in the economy service instead!

Oaxaca is a modern, attractive Spanish colonial town with plenty to see and do. As well as the ubiquitous churches and Zocalo (main square) it has many cafes, art galleries and markets to keep you busy and the surrounding countryside is dotted with small villages and ruins, an easy day trip away, which you can easily explore on your own or with organized tours. There is no lack of accommodation, from hostels to b and b’s and luxury hotels and it is an easy city to explore with most attractions within easy walking distance of the Zocalo, that is burst of colour, energy and entertainment every evening when the sun goes down.

My accommodation for the next few days is also business class. A modern, comfortable B and B with an eclectic mix of art work and religious icons, my themed “angels” room is just kitch enough to be interesting but not too over the top. It has an amazing kitchen which is used for cooking classes and the roof top terrace is perfect for a sunset drink with a view. Rene and his wonderful staff serve an abundant, organic breakfast, where I meet Martin, an English Brit who lives in Spain teaching English at Valencia University. I decide to accompany him to a nearby market town in a collective taxi so that I can get my bearings. Later I have a glorious hot shower in my indoor/outdoor bathroom (now that was luxury!) and spend a few hours exploring the art galleries and markets of Oaxaca on my own.

If you ever get here, here are some Oaxaca must do’s.

Have a Tlayuda, a kind of crisp pancake with various fillings which is an Oaxacan specialty.

Try a signature local spa treatment. The temazcal is a type of sauna which involves a 1200 year old mix of magic and medicine. A Shaman uses massage, bouquets of herbs, special oil and prayers for a relaxing and different spa experience. I don’t like steam and small spaces so I opted just for the massage, and Mariana, the 70 year old shaman was like a wise old grandmother, although her flawless young skin and energy was of a much younger woman!

If you have time, attend a cooking class. The enticing aromas emanating from the kitchen at my B and B were mouth watering!

Head to La Candela at Murgia 413 for Salsa and afterwards Café Central on Hidalgo 302 is a cool place with live music most nights.

La Biznaga on Garcia Vigil 512 is one of many good places to eat fresh local and international food.

Nuevo Mundo with great coffee, wifi and a bohemian feel is a great place to hang out.

Rene, Paola and Ruffina at www.casadelosmilagros.com is a good place to stay within walking distance of the Zocalo. They have 3 accommodation options so check which is most suitable. Rene speaks English and is a fountain of knowledge about Oaxaca and its attractions.

This morning I spoke to a childhood friend who has shared many of life’s pivotal moments with me. Yesterday I spoke to my dear Dad who just turned 86 and my sister, niece and brother in law in Hong Kong. A few days ago I called Betty and Bruce my defacto grandparents and neighbours from Sydney and this week I received emails from a number of people who I love very much.

One of the great freedoms of travelling, is the freedom to be yourself, where the people you meet don’t really know you, where you are not constrained by expectations or history or social norms or work responsibility.

However there is something equally precious and rewarding, and that is being reminded of, and feeling the connection and love for and from the people that do know you, that see you and hear you and accept you, with all of your idiosyncrasies, needs, fears and dreams. There is nothing more nurturing than hearing the voice of someone who is happy to hear from you, or feeling the hug of someone who really wants to be with you and when you get both at the same time, well that’s cause for celebration!

No matter how confident and self assured I feel, much of who I am is reflected back to me in the relationships I have, and the enduring ones, those that have withstood the test of time and potential conflict that comes from intimacy, they are the ones that remind me of who I really am and just how precious, safe and real true friendship can be.

hasta luego mis amigos y gracias

Mon x