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| A good low cost airline experience |
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| Almost there... |
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| I never get sick of this experience |
I can’t believe that in just a few hours I will be in such a different
environment.
It’s so much easier for people living in Europe to just pop over to another country and culture. I realise just how isolated we are, living in Australia
Pegasus www.flypgs.com is a low cost Turkish airline that operates flights to 48 destinations in 21 countries. The B737800 is newish and comfortable and the safety demo is unique and attention grabbing. The video shows uber cute Turkish kids (apparently the talented children of Pegasus staff and crew) demonstrating how to use the safety equipment and what to do in an emergency. It is funny and effective as everyone pays attention! Another good change is that the safety instructions are not in the seat pocket where no one reads them but written on the back of the tray table in front of you.
We’re delayed out of Rome Istanbul to Kayseri , one of 2 airports near Cappadocia , and then I have arranged a shuttle for the one hour trip to Goreme and my cave hotel. My luggage has been tagged through to my final destination so all I have to do is get a new boarding pass, clear customs and go to the right gate. Seems pretty easy doesn’t it, except that it isn’t. I don’t realise there is a time difference between Rome and Istanbul
When I realise, a frustratingly short time after the event, I am told that my luggage has gone (great security!) but I won't be going anywhere for 10 hours until the next scheduled flight. It’s a long uncomfortable night, without even a toothbrush, but eventually I am off again and a short flight later I am touching down in Central Anatolia Cappadocia.
In the ancient Persian language Cappadocia means land of beautiful horses. (In Roman times brood mares from the area were highly prized).
Goreme, with its UNESCO listed open air museum is about an hour’s shuttle bus ride away, through stark mountainous terrain. The hotel I have booked into www.mirashotel.com is gorgeous and my “cave” room is elegant and luxurious with a huge bathroom and a terrace with a view across a valley.
After a glorious shower (truly, a hot shower is a cure for almost anything) I head off with a map and directions to a travel agent to book onward flights but more importantly a hot air balloon ride and to get some ideas about what to do in the next few days. First I stop at a Hammam (not for the whole scrubbing you within an inch of your life thing, but to have a “medicine massage” on my sore shoulder (courtesy of a night spent on airport chairs).
The male masseuse is really, really good, but he despairs of my knotty mesh, exclaiming in broken English –oh no, this body is kaput! Not exactly what I needed to hear. After working away diligently to try to release the tension he tells me I need to come back because the problem is “really, really bad!”
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It is hard to describe just how lovely this place is and it continues to reveal itself as you wander its streets with little cave houses and hotels carved out of the landscape.
Mehmet Bozlak of Mehmet Bozlak Travel www.travel2goreme.com is a cross between Steve Irwin and Crocodile Dundee. He is a big man with an even bigger heart. He owns most of the businesses along the main strip in town, has been an actor (played a wine grower on a Survivor series who set competitors seemingly impossible tasks, was born in a Roman tomb, has travelled extensively, and counts an 83 year old lady in Positano, an Aussie who gave him a Swiss army knife over 20 years ago and a tour guide who doubles as a dog as his friends. He is real character, with a ready laugh and a life time of stories to share.
He helps me plan and book my balloon flight and a number of tours http://www.travel2goreme.com/en/tour/cappadocia-mount-nemrut-harran-sanliurfa-mardin-7-days-6-nights.36.html (I end up doing a shorter version of this tour to Nemrut Mountain
The 3 hour hike through the Rose Valley Cappadocia .
We pass numerous churches and pigeon houses (pigeon poop was so highly prized, that special houses were built for the pigeons so their poop which is apparently a really fabulous fertilizer could be collected) and stop at a cute little café in the middle of nowhere for an apple tea.
With Mehmet’s feisty little dog leading the way, we walk through the valley watching the light change in this glorious landscape, until the temperature drops and the sun sets silently and colourfully behind us.
It’s an early get up, and still dark, but I am excited to be finally doing a hot air balloon ride. A cute guy in a cap and bomber jacket with clip board in hand knocks on my hotel door (he turns out to be the second pilot) and deposits me at a holding point where a burgeoning crowd is trying to stay warm under outdoor heaters with a hot drink in hand.
A woman to my right is complaining bitterly to her husband who seems not to listening (about the crowd, meagre breakfast, lack of organisation, cold, flash photographers, cost of flight) and her whining continues unabated for some time. I secretly hope she is not in my basket and a short time later my pilot friend calls my name and I am glad she is left behind (still whining) I overhear her husband say that if she is really that unhappy they should cancel the whole thing but not surprisingly she doesn’t take up his offer. (I am embarrassed to admit that I have also wasted time and energy complaining at times-impatience is still a state which I can sometimes get stuck in).
We drive past balloons already being inflated and the early morning silence is punctuated by bursts of fire from the propane burners lighting up the morning sky.
We arrive at our balloon and the ground crew are already getting things ready. The pilots check wind direction and talk to their controllers and soon the giant balloon is towering above us ready to take off. We climb in to the basket, cold but happy, taking in the surreal scene unfolding all around us. Soon we are taking off, drifting over the valley, barely skimming over the trees that line its ridges on either side. Around us other balloons at various altitudes are drifting with us in silent symphony across a lightening sky.
We ascend for a while on our own and below us the distinctive fairy chimneys of Goreme stand in proud salute as they have for many years. We take photos in reverent silence each in our own thoughts, absorbing the beauty of this magical ancient place.
Time stands still for a while and there is only spaciousness and silence and silent reverie. Slowly we start to descend, crossing the valley to a safe landing spot in a field below. Below us, a caravan of trucks and support crews make their way to our rendezvous place and soon with a soft thud we are back on solid ground. We stand together in the camaraderie of a shared experience, blurry eyed, but happy, taking photos and drinking our champagne (grape juice) and savour each moment of an experience that has truly been a dream come true.
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A good site for information about travel in Turkey
Some tips re organising a Hot Air Balloon flight.
-Ask for an English speaking pilot-who can give you a commentary
-Ask for a small balloon (mine was for 16 people which was perfect- 4 in each section- but most are for 32!)
-do the first flight of the morning
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When the early Christians fled from Rome due to religious persecution, many arrived in Cappadocia and settled in underground cities where they practiced their religion in hiding. Years later when the danger had passed some of them started living in holes in the rock formations, carving accommodation for themselves and their animals and even churches in the volcanic rock. At night, the light of their fires could be seen flickering from a distance and it was thought the area was inhabited by spirits, hence the dwelling became known as fairy chimneys.
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This morning I wake up early again as I am off on a 3 day tour to Mt Nemrut in Eastern Turkey . When I look outside, I see dozens of hot air balloons hanging in the air in front of me. I watch them for a while, as they drift lazily across the sky, the sound and bright flash of the burners signalling a change in altitude or direction. It is almost as beautiful watching them from the ground as being up in the air.
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| photos don't do it justice |
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| its an awesome feeling |
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| drifting across the sky |
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| in such a beautiful place |
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