Capo D'Orlando and getting there....

sunrise from the Santuario

the view from the Santuario

with Pina at Sant'Agatha di Militello, a nearby town

my home at Le Terrazze

This is not my first time in Sicily. A few years ago I spent a wonderful month travelling down the East Coast of Italy, to Siderno Marina in Calabria, the pretty seaside town that was my father’s birthplace and on across the straights of Messina to Capo D’Orlando where I stayed in a lovely B and B called Le Terrazze with Pina and Calogero, its hospitable owners.

I went to Sicily initially because of a picture I saw in a calendar.

Some years ago I was a medical receptionist, working with the elderly patients in the old money Sydney suburb of Mosman.

One day a drug company rep dropped off a calendar with photos of beautiful scenery. One photo in particular captured my attention. It was of a stunning sunset from the top of a cliff overlooking a picturesque town perched along a stunning coastline. The caption simply said Cefalu’. I thought it might be in Greece, but when I looked it up it was in Sicily. I decided right then, that I would find a way to get to that place one day, and eventually I did. 

I also wanted to go to Sicily because I have always been drawn to islands, and because I knew that there was less tourism there than in the overcrowded north. I had heard of her beauty, history and wonderful food. The South of Sicily has always fascinated me. Since I read Carlo Levi’s book “Cristo si e’ fermato a Eboli” (Christ stopped at Eboli) where the South is portrayed as a place so backward and desolate that Christ did not even go there! and I picked up the not so subtle cues from my Northern grandparents and mother that the Southerners were less refined, intelligent and controlled, I wanted to see and experience for myself the land that was part of my heritage.

I chose Capo D’Orlando as a place to base myself as I thought it would be less expensive and a more real local experience than well known Taormina in the east or the capital Palermo. It also had the same name as my Dad, (Orlando) which I took to be a good omen, it was on the train line to Cefalu’ and it was on the water, and close to the Aeolian islands and Etna, all appealing attributes.

That first trip to Sicily was idyllic. There were so many highlights. Among them seeing the Doric temple at Segesta and the Valley of the Temples at Agrigento, visiting Syracusa, the baroque towns of  Noto, Ragusa and Modica (where I visited a chocolate shop that I had read about in Vogue Traveller), driving into San Vito lo Capo, a stunning town on the Western Coast at sunset, going to the Opera in the ampitheatre at Taormina and staying on beautiful Panarea.  

  

The hospitality of her people, stunning natural beauty and history make Sicily a fascinating and rewarding place to visit, notwithstanding its lack of accurate signage, little public transport, limited internet and phone coverage and not yet making the environment a priority. (avoiding dog shit and walking past a beach strewn with plastic bottles is still sadly a common occurrence)

That said, I chose to return to Sicily, and Capo D’Orlando in particular as a place to start my mid life gap year. I wanted to base myself for a couple of months in a place where I could immerse myself in the Italian language and culture. Pina and Calogero and their neighbours and family Nuccio and Mariella welcomed me back warmly into their home.

I have now been at Capo D’Orlando one week. I feel like I am already a part of the community. I have my favourite bars (cafes) to go and have a coffee and cornetto with crema (pastry with custard). I am driving Calogero’s old fiat panda which I love in spite of its age and lack of power steering, it just goes and goes on the smell of an oily rag and is so easy to park! I go for a long walk (passegiata) every morning to the santuario overlooking the town or along the beach (lungomare). I am tutoring my hosts and a neighbours’ daughter in English and as an outsider and a counsellor I am seen as someone people can confide safely in so I am privy to all the local gossip and people often stop to tell me their and others problems!  

For now, this is my home and I am enjoying the simple daily rituals and the opportunity to "press the pause button on the remote control"

a presto 


mon x

About Capo D’Orlando

Getting there:

I flew from Perth to Hong Kong on Cathay Pacific and then on to Rome (FCO) to Palermo (PMO) a 55 minute flight on Alitalia. Cost approximately 250 AUD (I had to pay 44 euro extra for a piece of luggage). You can also take a train all the way from Rome to Capo D'Orlando.

I took a bus from outside the airport to Palermo Centrale the main train station which took approx 1 hour which cost abpout 6 euro (usually you can also take a train but the day I arrived there was some track work being done). This was an unexpected bonus as the bus took you through the port and centre of Palermo past many monuments and buildings. I then caught a train directly to Capo D’Orlando (8.10 euro) which took approximately 2 hours.

Travel Tips

You can buy tickets in advance from Trenitalia or directly at the train station. Tickets MUST be validated by punching in on machines before boarding train or a fine may be applied.

The fastest trains are IC (intercity trains) Local trains that stop at every station may have deceiving names like "rapido" implying fast but may in fact be the slowest. 

Things to do:

Get up early and walk to the Santuario –its a good aerobic work out!

Go to a local cafe (Bar Tentazioni along the waterfront, la Conchilia or Delicious Cafe')  and have a coffee and cornetto (this delicious pastry comes in custard, marmalade or chocolate) for breakfast

Cost approx 2 euro

Nearby –drive/train to the city of Sant’ Agatha di Militello with its restored castle

Walk to nearby San Gregorio –a small fishing community

Take the train to Cefalu'
Visit San Stefano where you can buy beautiful ceramics directly from the artisans.

Local Delicacies

If you are lucky enough to eat with locals – try fritella di neonata (whitebait fritters), or risotto con gamberi e asparagi selvaticchi (prawn and wild asparagus risotto)

Local wines

Red- Try Nero D’Avola Rapitala' 2009 approx 6 euro or Planeta 2006 Merlot 23 euro
White-Try Corvo Glicine