Cruising the Med

The promenade deck 

The itinerary

the Nieuw Amsterdam

the sunrise...or was it sunset?

the saints 

the serenity

one of the sights

Dubrovnik

devoted taxi driver didn't want to let go!

the view 

African project of the Franciscan monastery

watching the wake

What day is it?

comfortable cabin

waiting tour buses

strange bedfellow

Manhattan dining room

5 star dining

daily news

dolled up for dinner

walking off all the wonderful food

with good friends

It always feels like home

Cruising in the Mediterranean is a very civilized affair.

True, there are lots of old people on board, and true, you are not likely to experience too many adrenaline rushes, but that’s the whole point of it. It’s relaxing exactly because you don’t have to think, about what and when to eat, or what to do, or even what day it is because each morning someone puts a mat in each lift to tell you!

Each day a newspaper from the country listed in your passport is delivered to your cabin, along with an onboard guide listing all the day’s activities and entertainment, and you are served complimentary food, lots of it, in your room, on the decks or in any number of the restaurants and bars on board.

You can do as much or as little as you like. For those of you who think ship life is boring, each day there are no less than 60 activities you can engage in, from tai chi, indoor cycling, quizzes, yoga, travel info, morning tea, bridge, acupuncture, dance classes, computer classes, health seminars, gambling, beer and wine tasting, party planning, cooking and cocktail mixing sessions, photo editing, bingo, Pilates, religious and cultural ceremonies, classical concerts, a disco, movies and night time show. And if that’s not enough, you can also play ping pong, go to the gym, on board casino, spa, internet café, library, play board games, or read in any number of comfortable chairs and lounges throughout the ship.

My cabin is surprisingly luxurious by past standards (I have cruised a few times before, once through a cyclone in Fiji, a couple of times in Asia and one memorable trip down the Nile). The spacious cabin (1079) is well positioned, mid ship and close to elevators and exits and has “business class” amenities,  a comfortable queen bed with crisp white linen and great pillows, soft bathrobe, a water view, flat screen TV and lounge.

Each evening your bed is turned down and the cabin staff create crazy towel characters which they leave on your bed along with chocolates.

It is hard to believe that there are nearly 3000 “guests” onboard. No area feels crowded, you can always get a seat near the pool and food is plentiful.  

Cruising on the sea is a vastly different experience to cruising on the ocean. Sometimes I forget that I am on a floating city surrounded by water. It is hard to tell that we are actually moving and it is only when I see the wake behind us that I know for sure. There is something almost hypnotic about watching the wake of a big ship from its stern. I am reminded of the passage of time, of the inevitability of life speeding past, constant change, and the importance of recognizing the inherent value of every moment.

I imagine how free I would feel if I could just let go of any residual hurt, fears, regrets and expectations, all the baggage from my past, just wrap it up and toss it gently overboard, watch it drift down to the sea below and hit the white water, surrendering all of it to the vastness and the depth of the sea and leaving it behind.

As if in affirmation, my body sighs and mentally I name them all and toss them one by one into the frothy wake and when I walk around the deck again my step seems lighter.  

There is something about looking out across the water when you are onboard a ship and seeing the sun rise that is serenely blissful.

Normally when I get up early to go for a walk, I have the promenade deck almost to myself, sharing it with a couple of large Russians and a few catering and engineering staff who are having a break or calling family and friends.

The crew of around 900 come from many different countries, a large percentage are from The Philippines and Indonesia. Most have been working for the company for many years and although they are often away for up to 10 months at a time, they tell me that pay and conditions are among the best in the industry.

It is hard to fault the extreme professionalism and customer service offered by the crew. They deal with every request and complaint by the sometimes demanding guests with respect and a willingness to resolve. With some you progress to first name basis, moving beyond roles to relationships with mutual respect and affection.  

Many of the passengers on this particular cruise are regular “cruisers”, some having done more than 300 days at sea! Most are retired, but there are some families and groups and even a few singles. People with disabilities and children are well catered for, with wheel chair accessibility and facilities for young children and teens.

The 12 day itinerary begins in Barcelona and ends in Venice, with stops in Greece and Croatia. I explore some and stay on board at other times, so the trip is a mix of relaxation and exploration.

For any cruise “virgins” among you, the following information may be helpful.

When you take into account that the cost of a cruise includes accommodation, meals and transport, cruising can be good value, often being a much cheaper holiday than if you had a similar experience on land, however be aware of hidden costs.

1. the cost of tours, alcohol, internet and laundry need to be factored in as extras and a “tip” is often also added automatically to the bill.  In addition any grooming or wellbeing services (massages, hairdressing) are not included and some restaurants have surcharges, so it pays to ask before you leave to avoid any unexpected unpleasant surprises.   

2. It is worth paying a little bit extra for a room with a “view” as inside rooms are quite dark and claustrophobic but unless you intend to stay in your room a lot the extra expense of a balcony or terrace is probably unnecessary. What is more important is that your view is not ‘blocked” by life boats or structures.

3. Don’t tie yourself in to a fixed time or place for dinner. Usually there are two sittings (early and late) but a good option is to be a “floater” and ask for free seating which gives you the freedom to move and meet different people.

4. Do some research re ports of call and how far the ship will be docked from the city centre. Some places are best seen with a guide, others are best explored at leisure. I did a great tour to Verona from Venice but enjoyed Messina and the Greek ports independently.

5. It is easy to fall into the smorgasbord mentality of feeling like you need to eat every meal and every dish offered. Practice mindful eating (at least some of the time) and eat when you are hungry or really enjoy something or you risk leaving the cruise quite a few kilos heavier than when you started.

6. The size of the ship, itinerary, time of travel, “nationality” of cruise line can all determine what kind of experience you have. Sailing in the ocean is very different to the sea, the time you have in a port can vary enormously, the age of a ship can determine its facilities and comfort and the mix of passengers can be more or less to your liking. Word of mouth recommendation and research can ensure the cruise experience meets your specific needs.

Looking back on my 12 days on the Nieuw Amsterdam www.hollandamerica.com (Mediterranean tapestry) I am really glad it was part of my mid life gap year experience.

It was just long enough to appreciate and enjoy, luxurious enough to relax after Havana and Central America, just the right itinerary for me, with a range of ports, some that I knew so could enjoy being on board and others that were new so I could explore, and there was just enough diversity on board to make it interesting.

It was lovely to share the experience with good friends (thanks Viv and Hugh) I will always remember our leisurely breakfasts in the elegant Manhattan Dining Room, pre-dinner drinks at the Ocean Bar and meeting all the colourful characters who remind me that everyone has a story. (It was fun seeing what Hank and Francine were wearing each day –usually bright matching outfits that only a European couple could carry off with aplomb- while trying to avoid the older Scottish gentleman who took a shine to me. I did meet I think the only eligible single man under 65 on board over dinner one night, but mainly I tried to develop the surprisingly difficult art of “dolce far niente” (doing nothing at all).

It was a joy not to think about carrying luggage for a while and the appalling and expensive internet access (one of my few gripes) was a blessing in disguise.

A few impressions…

I am sitting in the Manhattan Dining Room, an elegant multi level eatery at the stern of the ship. The napery is linen. The tables are set with Rosenthal china, heavy cutlery and crystal glasses. 

It is 10am and breakfast is just finishing. Most people have left the restaurant and the staff are clearing and re setting the tables for the next service and finally relaxing. They talk amongst themselves and one young man starts singing and dancing, still working, stopping only to acknowledge each guest and wish them a good day.

I look out the window to the big ship’s wake. We are in the open sea heading towards Katakolon, then Corfu and Dubrovnik. Sicily is beyond the horizon. Yesterday, when we docked at Messina, the port city was having a siesta. We strolled through quiet streets and had an ice cream at Pasticceria Irrera. It was seriously good.

Upstairs in the Lido Restaurant the setting is less formal. People will be sitting with plates piled high with breakfast options from a number of countries. Asian, Danish, English, American and continental options will be offered with real maple syrup, hash browns, and healthy spa specials.

I wonder how much food will be wasted.

A flash back to the news last night. The CNN reporter is young and handsome, but his face is serious and his eyes are sad. He is reporting on the famine in Somalia. I only catch the end of the story and am struck not so much by what he is saying but at the effect that this story is having on him.   

The old walled city of Dubrovnik is compact and attractive. Viewed from the hill above it, the bright terracotta colour of its restored rooftops stand out against the few original ones spared from the bombing in the Bosnian War. A stroll through the old city is a must. You can walk the walls, visit the Franciscan monastery, buy lace and drink from the fountain in the main square just inside the Pile gate, or ride the cable car for a wonderful view. The coastal drive to nearby fishing town reminds me a little of the Amalfi Coast.  

Nafplion is a lovely town on the Peloponnese. You can visit the Palamidi fortress above the town (800 steps) or wander the shops or walk to the beach along a peaceful coastal path.

Corfu (also known as Kerkira) is an elegant city, touristy but terrific. A drive to the Paleokastritsa monastery was worth doing. I remember wide squares and easy to stroll streets, Kumquat liquor and jewellery stores everywhere.

Katakolon is a picturesque Greek town with seafood restaurants, cafes (most with wifi) and shops not far from Olympia. It is a lovely place to linger over a long seafood lunch! It is also the place where a recently bereaved Italian speaking Greek lady fell, right in front of me. (What are the odds?)

When I helped her up and escorted her back to a friend’s restaurant, she told me about her husband and their 62 years together. She told me how much she missed him and how lost she was now that he was gone. She told me of her loneliness and fears for the future and how much she loved her adopted town. She told me of her house, high up on the hill with a water view. She told me that she didn’t want to leave but was finding it hard to stay on her own and how she was resisting her friends’ urgings for her to move to Athens, even though she was afraid. She told me that if I ever wanted to return I had a place to stay.

I looked at her lined face and felt the light weight of her frail frame as it leant against me. I imagined her young and carefree, strong and in love, full of dreams and illusions and the arrogance of youth. I breathed in the slightly acid smell of age and fear and something sweet and her sense of desolation and despair.

I thought about it briefly, allowed myself to fantasize returning to this paradise, keeping her company, writing, creating a new life there. I even called her a few days later to check on how she was. The excitement in her voice reminded me of the way my Dad responds when I call. What a gift to be greeted with enthusiasm.

I am not sure if I will see her again, but I’m very glad we met. She made me realise that perhaps I am better off alone, because as hard as it was when the person I thought was my best friend left after many years together, how much harder would it be to really lose your best friend after a lifetime together? 

A presto

Mon x