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| Scilla, Calabria, old quarter |
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| Castello di Scilla |
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| Scilla, between old and new town |
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| mermaid of Scilla |
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| old quarter of Scilla |
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| Scilla beach, view from castle |
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| Scilla local with million dollar views from her modest home |
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| old quarter of Scilla (Chianelea) from castle |
25th April
Reggio Calabria is on mainland Italy just across the strait of Messina, a short 20 minute ferry ride from Sicily. It is the region my father comes from and is known for its beautiful beaches, great food and hospitality.
It, like Sicily, also has a darker side, but when I set off on the trip there, it is only its positives that fill my mind, and I can hear Dad’s voice singing “Calabrisella Mia” a local folk song.
The drive from Capo D’Orlando is easy, and about an hour on the A3 autostrada to one of the embarkation points near Messina.
I have done the crossing once before, and I am impressed with the efficiency and speed with which the staff can load the ferry full of cars. Once aboard, you are asked to leave your vehicle and proceed to one of the inner or outer decks where surprisingly good food, books and even clothes are available for purchase. Locals tend to buy a coffee, panino or sweet bun and play cards or chat on one of the inner decks while tourists tend to congregate on the outer decks to take photos.
In no time at all, and in comfort we have arrived at Villa San Giovanni in Calabria and just as easily we disembark and are soon on our way to Scilla, a small fishing village, on the coast 23 kms north of Reggio Calabria.
We spend a wonderful few hours there, visiting the Castello Ruffo, where there is a photographic exhibition and then wandering through the narrow laneways of the old borgo of Chianalea, with its fishing boats and small houses carved into the hillside.
After lunch we drive to Parghelia, a village about 2 kms from Tropea, a place which is the “Taormina” of Calabria. I have booked an overnight stay at Villino Eleonora www.villinoeleonora.com and am not sure what to expect as it was a last minute decision with very little planning.
It turns out to be one of the nicest and most interesting places I have ever stayed in. Alessandro and his Mum are the main operators of the B and B, which was actually the laundry of the villa which the family still live in.
When we arrive, the extended family are having an Easter get together and they invite us to join them. We sit in the gardens of the villa sipping good Calabrian wine for hours, and enjoying the hospitality and generosity of our hosts, slowly meeting the whole family, including sisters Marie Claire and Rosemary who grew up in England but now both live in Italy, teaching English in Naples and Tropea.
We realise we are actually in the company of “Nobili” as it turns out the family still own most of the villas in the nearby town and the main street is named after them!
We finally set off to explore Tropea and I enjoy the best Tartufo di Pistacchio (a local specialty) and eventually eat at a local trattoria (Pinturicchio) which was recommended by Alessandro.
We share a delicious inexpensive meal (oven baked focaccia, chilli mussels, spaghetti with anchovies and fennel, ravioli stuffed with scampi meat) and head back to our “Villa” after an amazing day.
A huge thunderstorm hits just as we arrive and we are soon being buffeted by strong gusts of wind that threaten to blow off the roof of the “laundry”. I fall asleep glad to be tucked into my comfortable bed!
The next morning we survey the damage. Trees down, roads blocked and the villa proper has sustained some damage as well. We join the family for an “abundant” spread. Fresh orange juice, pastries, scrambled eggs, piping hot coffee, fresh strawberries and kiwi fruit, toast and home made jams. Somewhat reluctantly we leave Villino Eleonora and head off to explore the coast back to Reggio before returning to Sicily.
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